Magic Kingdom is now behind us, it is time to get back on the road and explore the wildest Florida. No, we are not returning to the Eveglades, we are traveling towards the Atlantic coast, between swampy lakes and very few towns. The "50", also known as E Colonial Drive and then Cheney Highway is the long and monotonous road that connects Orlando with the Atlantic coast: it is made of wetlands, wildlife refuges and areas and nature reserves, but also of very special city. We're talking about Christmas, where it's ... always Christmas. To remind you of where you are there's a tree, located right along the "50" (on the left, coming from Orlando), perennially decorated with Christmas decorations. Anyway, we're not here for the tree, but to pay tribute to what is the second peculiarity of a city that, as you may have noticed, tends to differentiate itself from the others despite being very small and does not have the classical downtown.
(Swampy - The world biggest gator)
Do not worry, you'll find everything you need along the E Colonial Drive, like Swampy (east of the city), simply the biggest alligator in the world. When it comes to "world guinness record", we are there. Swampy, revered by locals and tourists, is 200 feet long and is located in the parking lot of "Jungle Adventures, A real Florida Animal Park", a theme park dedicated to animals. Venturing into the park will allow you to meet gators, snakes, Florida panthers and many other animals that live in these areas.
Noi scegliamo di accontentarci di ammirare solamente il "mitico" Swampy, ma riusciamo ad intravedere (non siamo a conoscenza del motivo per cui fosse in un recinto) anche l'orso bruno della Florida, di cui onestamente ignoravamo l'esistenza. Nel percorso con l'airboat potrete ammirarli, con fortuna, nel loro ambiente naturale.
We choose to admire only the "mythical" Swampy, but also glimpse even the Florida's brown bear. Honestly, we didn't even know that Florida hosts bears! You can take an airboat tour and admire the wildlife in their natural environment.
Solitamente, chi si avventura in queste latitutidini lo fa per uno e un solo motivo, il Kennedy Space Center di Cape Canaveral, di cui abbiamo parlato nel diario di viaggio legato alla Florida (https://duecuoriperviaggiare.blogspot.it/2015/01/xmas-in-florida-day-3.html). Noi invece, una volta giunti a Titusville, imbocchiamo la Max Brewer Memorial Parkway ed entriamo nel Merritt Island Wildlife Refuge, a livello naturale la grande sorpresa dell'on the road natalizio.
Usually, those who venture into this part of Florida are doing it for only one reason, the Kennedy Space Center in Cape Canaveral, which we talked about in the travel diary related to Florida (https://duecuoriperviaggiare.blogspot.it/2015/01 /xmas-in-florida-day-3.html). We don't. Once in Titusville, we take the Max Brewer Memorial Parkway and enter the Merritt Island Wildlife Refuge, the natural surprise of the on theroad.
Cape Canaveral and the Kennedy Space Center are not far and if you stop at some viewpoints you can see the huge NASA building. After a few miles, at the fork, keep right and head to the visitor center. There you will find all the information on one of the most underrated places in the whole Florida. The NWR contains over 1000 species of plants, 117 species of fish, 68 amphibians and reptiles, 330 birds, and 31 mammal species, of which 21 species are listed as endangered by the state of Florida or by the US federal government.
Il Merritt Island NWR Complex fornisce percorsi escursionistici per il pubblico, soggetti ovviamente a restrizioni di accesso da parte della NASA. Prima di visitarlo, controllare dunque che in agenda non ci siano particolari attività legate alla Nasa. Al visitor center potrete percorrere un brevissimo trail che sarà una sorta di "piccolo aperitivo" rispetto a quello che vi aspetterà più avanti.
Management of the NWR is provided through the Merritt Island NWR Complex, providing provides hiking and driving trails for the public, subject to access restrictions from NASA. It is a 'gateway site' for the Great Florida Birding Trail. At the visitor center you can hike a very short trail that will be a sort of "little aperitif" compared to what you will visit later.
(visitor center trail)
La natura è chiaramente predominante e, con la solita dose di fortuna, non è raro incontrare qualche animale particolare. L'accesso all'area, seppur gestita dal National Park Service, è gestita in maniera differente rispetto a quanto siamo stati abituati.
Nature is clearly predominant and, with the usual dose of luck, it is not uncommon to see any particular wildlife. The access to the area, although managed by the National Park Service, is managed differently than we have been used to.
(visitor center trail)
La maggior parte del Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge è gratuita, l'unica eccezione è la Black Point Wildlife Drive, per la quale si paga una fee di 10 dollari a vettura (il pass annuale dei national park è valido).
Most of the Merritt Island National Wildlife Refuge is free of charge, the only exception is the Black Point Wildlife Drive, for which you pay a day-fee (10 dollars per car). The annual national park pass - America the beautiful is valid.
(visitor center trail)
Ed è proprio questa la grande attrazione del parco, il vero motivo per cui il Merritt Island Refuge è entrato di diritto tra le grandi sorprese positive del viaggio. Per accedervi svoltate a sinistra dopo aver lasciato il visitor center e percorrete a ritroso la Max Brewer Memorial Parkway sino al bivio. Lì, svoltate a destra e proseguite per un paio di miglia. Sulla sinistra troverete la "one way road" denominata Black Point Wildlife Drive, una strada sterrata ben tenuta che si estende su un terreno paludoso compreso tra l'Indian River e l'Oceano Atlantico. Il loop è di 7 miglia.
This is the major attraction of the park, the real reason why the Merritt Island Refuge has entered by right among the great positive surprises of the trip. To access it, turn left after leaving the visitor center and follow the Max Brewer Memorial Parkway back to the junction. Once there, turn right and continue for a couple of miles. On the left you will find the "one way road" called Black Point Wildlife Drive, a well-kept dirt road that extends over marshy land between the Indian River and the Atlantic Ocean. The loop is 7 miles long.
(black point wildlife drive)
Il percorso è corredato da diversi punti di sosta (segnalati con un numero) sulla laguna. Per chi ama il birdwatching o più in generale la wildlife qui troverà il suo paradiso: aironi, cicogne, tartarughe, alligatori... c'è davvero l'imbarazzo della scelta e non dovrete neppure essere fortunati per avvistarli. E sullo sfondo la piattaforma di lancio di Cape Canaveral, un bellissimo connubio tra la tecnologia e la natura, che interagiscono senza danneggiarsi.
The drive is accompanied by several view points (marked with a number) on the lagoon. For those who love birdwatching will find their paradise right here: herons, storks, turtles, alligators ... This is an embarrassment of riches and you won't have to be lucky to spot them. The launch platform of Cape Canaveral in the backgroun, a beautiful combination of technology and nature, which interact without damage.
(black point wildlife drive)
Al punto di sosta numero nove, quasi in conclusione del loop, prende il via il Cruickshank Trail, il bellissimo trail che vi catapulterà nelle zone più remote della "wetland". Capirete che il percorso è quello giusto perchè, proprio in avvio di trail, una piccola torre vi permetterà di ammirare il paesaggio da posizione privilegiata.
The Cruickshank Trail begins at the view point number nine, almost at the end of the loop. This is a beautiful trail that will catapult you into the most remote areas of the wetland. You will realize that the trail is the right one because, just at the beginning, a small tower will allow to admire the landscape from a privileged position.
(Cruickshank Trail)
You won't find many informations about this place on the internet and it's a shame because, even if not visited by mass tourism, the Merritt Island Refuge and in particular the Black Point Wildlife Drive are wonderful.
E proprio la scarsa conoscenza della materia ha fatto si che, dopo quasi due miglia percorse, tornassimo sui nostri passi. L'area era sempre più remota e non intravedevamo la fine del trail, che solo dopo abbiamo scoperto essere un loop di ben 5.2 miglia!
When in doubt, we find retracing our steps to be a wise place to begin. This is what happened during the hike. The lack of knowledge of the subject has meant that, after almost two miles walked, we decided to come back. The area was increasingly remote and we couldn't see the end of the trail, which then we found out that was a loop of 5.2 miles!
(Cruickshank Trail)
Leaving the Merritt National Wildlife Refuge, for the first time we take the "1", the coastal road that we will follow till Jacksonville, the last major city in Florida before crossing the border into Georgia. The Daytona Speedway is waiting for us and we can not afford further stops, but if you happen in these lands do not miss the town of Oak Hill and in particular the Seminole Rest Trail (0.3 miles). At the site of a former plantation and important archaeological site on the Indian River Lagoon, Seminole Rest provides excellent interpretation of this coastal outpost across the shimmering waters from the main portion of Canaveral National Seashore. A paved path and boardwalk loop around the complex encourages you to not step on these rare early Florida mounds, where pottery dating back to 2000 B.C. has been found. A paved path, the Seminole Rest Trail provides an easy stroll around Seminole Rest, a former plantation on the Indian River. Sitting atop a series of large middens topped with cedars and an oak hammock – it holds thousands of years of history, first as a coastal encampment for Florida’s early peoples (2000 B.C. – 1040 A.D.) and during the Spanish period, home for the Ais and Timucua Indians. There are two historic buildings on site, including the Instone House, a plantation home built before the 1890s, and an caretaker’s cottage of a similar vintage. The interpretive trail follows the shoreline and then loops around the buildings to parallel a mangrove-lined slough on the return trip. You’re directly across from Eldora Hammock in the main portion of the National Seashore. For more informations visit www.floridahikes.com
(Daytona Speedway)
However, our head is already projected towards the temple of speed, the Daytona International Speedway, in the city of Daytona. Defining it "the temple of speed" is almost simplistic: only a few other circuits (only Indianapolis in the United States) stand comparison with one of the most famous circuits in the world: the history of American motorsport was written in this place.
(Daytona Speedway Museum)
Purtroppo tutti i tour per la giornata sono sold out e, anche se ci fosse stato ancora posto, non sarebbe stato così affascinante come paventato. Sono in corso, infatti, alcune prove sul circuito e la parte più interessante, ovvero l'ingresso in pista, non sarebbe stato possibile. In ogni caso la lezione l'abbiamo imparata. D'ora in poi prenoteremo tutto da casa.
Unfortunately all the tours for the day are sold out and, even if there had still been tickets available, it would not have been the same. In fact, some tests are under way on the circuit and we wouldn't been allowed to walk on the circuit, definitely the most interesting part of the tour. In any case, we've learned the lesson. Right now we will definitely book anything from Italy!
(Daytona Speedway Museum - the old circuit on the left)
Al Daytona Speedway esistono tre diversi tipi di tour (speedway tour, all-access tour e vip tour), ma per quelli che vogliono qualche brivido in più è possibile anche guidare una vettura Nascar (per i neofiti, quelle di "cars") in pista. Sono otto qui i tour tra i quali scegliere, dai costi però proibitivi. Si parte dai 250 dollari del "ride along" ai 2500 del "world champion". La delusione per non poter effettuare il tour "All-Access Tour" è forte, ci dobbiamo accontentare del museo che, per gli amanti della velocità, rimarrà comunque un "must".
There are different types of tours at Daytona Speedway (speedway tours, all-access tours and vip tours), but for those who want some more thrills it is also possible to drive a Nascar car (for newcomers, those of "cars") on the track. There are eight tours here to choose from, but prices are prohibitive. From the 250 dollars of the "ride along" to the 2500 of the "world champion". False expectations create disappointment and that's why we're feeling for not being able to make the tour "All-Access Tour": we can just visit the museum which, for lovers of speed, is still a "must".
Al suo interno più di cent'anni di storia del circuito e di auto naturalmente, un pezzo di storia americana davvero imperdibile. Un aneddoto su tutti. Ve lo ricordate quel gioiellino chiamato "cars - motori ruggenti"? E ve lo ricordate Hudson Hornet, il grande maestro di "Saetta Mcqueen"? Bene, volete sapere qual è stata la prima auto a letteralmente dominare in quel di Daytona? Una Ford? No. Una Chevrolet? No, una Hudson con l'immortale Herb Thomas, per tutti "Hudson Hornet". Metà del vecchio tracciato di Daytona era sulla spiaggia e quindi sullo sterrato, metà sull'asfalto. Non c'è bisogno che vi spieghiamo dove "Hudson Hornet" faceva la differenza.
Inside the museum you can find more than a hundred years of the circuit's history and of course learn more about all the cars which have written the story of Daytona Speedway. A truly unmissable piece of American history. An anecdote about the Daytona Speedway history. Do you remember that little gem called "cars"? Yes? Do you remember Hudson Hornet, who explained drifting to a skeptical Saetta McQueen? Well, do you want to know what was the first car to literally dominate in that of Daytona? A Ford? No. A Chevrolet? No, a Hudson! With the immortal Herb Thomas, well known as "Hudson Hornet". Half of the old route of Daytona circuit was on the beach and then on the dirt road, half on the asphalt. We do not need to explain where "Hudson Hornet" made the difference.
(Daytona Speedway Museum)
If now Nascar is the second most recognized car racing brand in the world (second only to Formula 1), it is largely due to Herb Thomas, the pioneer of speed. There is no need to tell you that as many as 80 speed records have been established on the sands of Daytona. The first one? 68 miles per hour, in February 1903. The last was 276 miles per hour in March 1935.
(Daytona Speedway Museum)
Ecco, se il Daytona Speedway ci ha comunque impressionato, lo stesso non si può dire della città di Daytona. Bruttina, a tratti anche pericolosetta, e con molte serrande abbassate. Un po' meglio, ma solo un pochino, la vicina Daytona Beach che, se da una parte è ancora oggi considerata la "the world famous beach" (anche se ormai durante lo spring break moltissimi studenti americani scelgono Panama Beach come meta), non ci ha impressionato molto. Forse perchè c'era brutto tempo, o forse solo perchè era inverno. Discorso diverso invece merita la cena.
Here, if the Daytona Speedway still impressed us, we cannot say the same for the the city of Daytona. Ugly, sometimes even dangerous, and with many stores that are boarded-up. A little 'better, but just a little bit, the nearby Daytona Beach which is still considered the "the world famous beach" (even though by spring break many American students choose Panama Beach as a top destination). In any case we didn't fall in love with it, maybe because of the bad weather or maybe just because it was winter time. The dinner alone... deserves instead an entire chapter.
(downtown Daytona Beach)
(Daytona Beach)
We try the "gator bites" for the first time at the Ocean Deck (which we recommend), a small restaurant located close to downtown Daytona Beach. With a great view on the beach, The Ocean Deck is local family owned Daytona Beach tradition for over 50 years, featuring live music and dancing every night of the week. A classic restaurant where locals go. Gator bites reminded us of chicken, just slightly more expensive.
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